Angkor what?

You  just need one glance at the Angkor map to understand its scale. Major temple Angkor Wat and capital: Angkor Thom where build in 12th century. Entire complex covers over 1000 square miles and could allegedly host million inhabitants. Architectural structure and design (Angkor Wat was build from the top down) makes Gothic cathedrals of Reims and Amiens look like carton models. Not even because it has such an exotic appearance but for the sole reason of grand scale. You need some imagination to depict it now though. All buildings are in ruins, mostly loosely scattered stones like re-assembled jigsaw puzzles. Like in many other examples, Angkor was build in decline in hope to turn people's fate but didn't last long. Abandoned city decayed in silence. Nature reclaimed it's possession covering entire area with forest. Sandstone ruins look like infected with trees, mutating together to form strange structures, especially in Ta Phrom (Tomb Raider temple). By equally common irony of history only French invaders discovered the site and recognized its importance but couldn't save it from wheel of time. Ancient civilization is usually on a mercy of modern history - the same ideology which made people build such an impressive structure wiped collective memory like there was rather regress than progress in human development. Khmer Rouge regime which lasted only 4 years had it contribution not only in killing memory of the past but also physically destroying its remnants.

Angkor in the time of glory must have looked amazing. It's still like an alien spacecraft that landed in the middle of Asia. Murals depicting Hindu mythology cover every possible surface making it a huge book carved in stone. Europe was crawling in mud and feces when Khmer were building extensive irrigation systems and forming artificial lakes. One think remains common though - only religious ideology could afford technology that lasts for ages.

Great way to see the complex is to rent a bike, which comes free in some hotels and guesthouses. Average price for good mountain bike is $3 per day so it's almost free anyway. Distance between main archaeological sites is significant though - you can see them in one day if it's only about ticking the list but respect yourself and invest in three days pass - it's worth it.