Monday 27 January 2014

Same, same but better...

Bangkok. First time I had this strange feeling of alienation, insignificance in Asia. Like there is a vast emptiness of cosmos around me and I'm floating without meaning and vantage point. It is a overwhelmingly giant city that resembles Europe to the highest extend from what I've in Asia so far. Public transport, wide motorways, skyscrapers and shiny, glassy shopping malls. After Cambodia and Vietnam everything is so organized and smooth that it makes you uncomfortable. I found myself staring through the window of a speeding minivan that took me to Hua Hin in 2.5h (200km!) like I was suddenly transported to the future. Thailand - great food, friendly people, fantastic weather and pretty girls ready to offer you bum, bum for very cheap, cheap... Everything is so perfect that you barely notice that you left home - unless you live in Ireland:))

Being in exotic Asia you expect to hike for 3 days in the jungle without electricity, get stuck on some remote Island with azure waters and swim with turtles and sharks, meet local tribes in the hidden villages or struggle with stomach ache after drinking tap water. You're thinking about Laos or Myanmar though. Thailand is covered in motorways, speedboats can take you to the most distant patches of land and everything is there if you only ask for it. Not really a backpacker's dream anymore but does it mean it's spoiled by years of extensive tourism or just reaching a status of respectable country in the elite club of modern economies? Chase after "real Asian experience" became exclusive and expensive.You can still find real Thailand if you pay for it but standard has a wonderful value here and it's still equally authentic and interesting.

Thailand is of course one of the main tourist destinations for a reason but it has it's peculiarities. King Bhumibol Adulyadel is a living god, pharaoh worshiped in the most remote places and the longest reigning modern head of state. His depiction is like a talisman that brings luck to any business and is usually placed in a flowered shrine. Main religion is Theravada Buddhist but there is wide spread animism in most villages in the Northern part of the country. Everything coexist in the miraculously efficient balance. If China is Asian equivalent of US, Thailand is like UK. Thai culture spreads across all South East region. Khmer, Lao and Vietnamese watch Thai soap operas or American movies with Thai subtitles. Roads are fantastic, transport smooth and cheap - foreign investments are attracted like English pensioners to Pattaya or Phuket. There is no escape from charm and smile of Thai people - emotionally drained Westerners plunge to their senselessness and just fall in love with this multidimensional paradise.  

Best way to see most places is to rent a motorbike or bicycle. Roads are safe and drivers respectful but make sure you check you vehicle beforehand to avoid any problems while returning it - smallest damage can be costly as there is no regulation in this matter and compensation depends entirely on the lessor. Even in such civilized and well organized country as Thailand economy is based on a personal contact. Bargaining is a common law. Friendly approach and smile can get you better price than shopping skills and your success depends more on the fact that somebody likes you than on the size of your wallet. It doesn't mean they all want to be your friends though - money is still a powerful driving force lurking behind sings of kindness so don't get overexcited.

Thailand is a modern, rich and fast developing country, cultural and culinary epicenter of the mind-boggling diversity of South-East Asia. 50 years ahead of Laos, 30 of Cambodia and 20 of Vietnam but still submerged in the same mental Asian infrastructure. Same, same, but somewhat better...

























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